061: The Paris one

What PFW's best dressers wore and loved most.

My relationship with fashion first found form when I was a teen living in Costa Rica, finding my place in online communities like TheFashionSpot, where I’d chat with strangers until 3, 4 in the morning about one-legged jumpsuits and Lindsay Wixson and McQueen’s Plato's Atlantis (the impact that had, my god).

I’d wait for L’Officiel and Purple’s editorials to be posted on some blog I forget the name of now and recreate them in my living room; I’d spend as much time as I could at the local end-of-the-earth, un-fined thrift stores and revere their weirdest, most sculptural pieces (where I found ‘70s YSL, ‘80s Balmain, ‘90s Moschino, and many other amazing things with no known designer). I made my whole life about fashion in a place that didn’t accommodate the pursuit in the slightest, because it made me feel the magnanimity of the creative mind and its desperation for connection.

I hadn’t felt that way again for a long time, until Paris.

Sitting in on shows for universe-architects like Junya Watanabe and Thom Browne, culture-shifters like Issey Miyake, and at Noir Kei Ninomiya, which was pure concept and execution, brought me back to the uncapped possibility of my embryonic love for the thing.

Fashion is back! Per me and every other fashion writer you follow, I know. But that diagnosis skims over an essential appendage. Back in the aughts and ‘10s, we had Fruits, we had Cobra Snake 1.0 and Last Night’s Party, we had early Sartorialist and Garance Doré: We had independent, pre-social media personal style. Today, up to and including this past season, the same 20 or 30 legacy influencers wearing full looks remain unshakeable fixtures on—and are often the full extent of—virtually every street style platform.

Some accounts, like Liisa Jokinen’s NYC Looks and Hel Looks are steadfast in their commitment to documenting the patterns and thought processes of individual dressers, but otherwise this stratum of the industry is largely fragmented and de-emphasized. Amid all the celebration of artistry’s return to the runway, the industry has yet to make amends for having relegated street style to mere brand marketing lows.

Just because it’s not being translated to more visible forums, though, doesn’t mean excellent taste isn’t unfolding outside the shows, in the metro, at cafes across interwoven arrondissements. Paris was brimming with deft ensembleurs, if only for those who were there to see them.

Below, here are seven such embodiments of considered personal style at Paris Fashion Week, in their own words.

Maria McManus, @maria_mcmanus_

“In Paris the weather changed from sunny to rainy to cold to hot throughout the day, so layering was really important. I was working from our showroom in the Marais for most of my days in Paris, meeting with stores and friends of our brand, but found myself grabbing our Camel Hair Trench Coat when I had a minute to go outside for a coffee or to visit my friends at Ofr. It’s really warm, classically chic and doubled as a very soft airplane blanket. Our camel hair is a very sustainable material as it is farmed responsibly, lasts a very long time, and is biodegradable. I layer it over our recycled cashmere hoodie, responsible wool wide leg trousers, Birkenstocks and socks.”

Goldie Williams, @goldiewilliams_

“This is my favorite uniform outfit, sober and functional. I’m wearing Lemaire. Lemaire is my spiritual father and my favorite brand of all time. The shoes are Dr. Martens x Raf Simons.”

Claire Marie, @clairemaa

“We can talk about the two-piece beige suit. The vest and trousers are from By Malene Birger, a Danish brand I truly love and curate all their sound design. They have the best suits, which are my to-go for work, meaning playing at night with heels or just wearing with Converse at day when I run around both cities Paris and NYC.”

Emmy Björling, @emmybjo

“My go-to look always includes a nice pop of color. This season I had my ATP Atelier mini bag in baby blue combined with my soft hot pink beanie from Stockholm Surfboard Club. Even if I try to keep my look minimalistic (as the Scandi girl I am) I always end up with a splash of color. Especially when it comes to accessories! During an intense period like this I feel like adding colors almost makes it easier and definitely more fun! ;)”

David Farrugia, @uniformobject

“Wore my typical uniform…Mostly Rick Owens and Boris Bidjan Saberi. The only exciting contrast to this is some gold and diamonds from my jewelry label @uniform_object.”

Desiree Pais, @desiree.pais

“This was my first time back in Paris since 2019 for a whirlwind quick trip. My Scorpio really comes out in Paris—all black (but sexy and sleek) everything! I only brought a carry on with me so I kept everything down to a few basics from Zara and then accessorize with a Louis Vuitton belt and my favorite little purse from Gucci.”

Meaghan Flynn Petropoulos, @necessaryexcess

“How does one choose? So many amazing things found at PFW, but this Prada metal dress with appliqué sequins really hit. Added some knee high Margiela tabis and I was ready to hit the town with my friends and clients, who are luckily one in the same!”