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040: Girls in white tanks are born liars
Plus Mirror Palais' new collection, Ganni's archive sale, and not me dropping my skincare routine.
The white tank has reentered the chat. But it’s hard to say how long its streak has been. The last two summers have for sure been decorated with tan, toned arms flanked by creamy ribbed fabric disappearing sensuously into armpits. But even though the white tank seems like it’s been an unrelenting staple e’er present in the mass wardrobe we all share, I’m not so sure.
A certain Annie Leibovitz snap of Anjelica Huston would have you believe in the white tank’s omnipresence, but the truth is that the understated garment is climbing out of normality and into its regency era, as ushered in on the FW’22 runway by Prada and Bottega Veneta (in leather, no less), making its ascent alongside egalitarian cohorts denim (Schiaparelli, Diesel) and jersey knit (Balenciaga).
So what is the best white tank? Those who chimed in on a Instagram Story call heralded many times over the Hanes Premium Comfort Soft from Target, Re/Done x Hanes, Brandy Melville, and Petit Bateau girls’ tanks. Meanwhile, Lissie Chappel (who’s spoken in Subrina Heyink’s newsletter on just this subject) expertly advised on the Eterne ribbed.
One observation about the tank movement: When it first reached hot-girl notoriety—let’s say around 2018/2019, when a nipple poking through fabric was still a novelty—the favored look was a ribbed racerback style. (We don’t call them wifebeaters anymore but when I say that, you know exactly what I mean.) Now, the preference is leaning further towards skinny strap styles like Nicole Kidman’s in Eyes Wide Shut, or square neck versions like this one I love from Flore Flore.
I think the reason for this shift is that our eye became trained to the former version and it was no longer perceived as an undergarment, turning down the volume on its message of carefree sensuality. In New York we wear bras as tops in the summer, we don’t care, but the idea with the white tank is almost to feign absolute ignorance, to obscure our motives and not let anyone onto how much we know. The white tank is utterly cryptic, regardless of how much it wants to tell you about its innocence.
Mirror Palais Collection III was received with a frenzy of pre-orders, the most limited styles including those made of salvages lace, hand-selected by Marcelo Gaia, already sold out no doubt to the deep remorse of would-be-buyers outside the brand’s most nuclear following. But the styles that do remain stand to become defining silhouettes—bias silks and low-rise minis that easily switch lanes across a dream Mirror Palais capsule and fantastical petticoats and poofy bloomers that demonstrate Gaia’s unique perspective on sex appeal.
Simon Miller x Melissa is a public-pool-rinse-off, in-the-yard-with-a-garden-hose, ice-lollies-on-the-couch, go-as-you-are youth fantasy and the most palpable proof that summer’s coming I’ve felt this year yet. But more than that, all the ditzy, hippie florals, neon, and outsize platform clogs remind me that the uniform of the youth remains continuous from generation to generation; we did it in the ‘70s, the ‘90s, clearly in the nostalgic vortex we’re spinning in now, and everywhere in between. It’s reassuring that play and joy and expression in its most frothy, cloud-light form has a signature, and this Simon Miller-Melissa collab is it.
Mansur Gavriel releases a raffia collection that achieves freshness and familiarity, despite the material’s typical ubiquity during the spring/summer months. It’s exciting to see MG’s signature silhouettes executed in the organic, unpredictable weave, which in this case isn’t palm fiber-based but made of a leather alternative in a straw dye.
I’m torn with how to feel about this Enfants Riches Déprimés x Jacques Marie Mage sunglass collection. On the one hand, how can I possibly respect a brand oft-worn by Machine Gun Kelly that, despite having several languages at its disposal, named itself “Depressed Rich Kids.” But on the other, Jacques Marie Mage’s small-batch, Japanese-made frames may be the most exciting thing in eyewear today. The seven SKUs do exude some character—past life hacker-raver billionaire who’ll have you thrown off a boat—but up-to-$1,095 price tags have made the determination for me.
The Delia’s catalog is in everyone’s mouth whenever a vaguely nostalgic trend breaks the surface, but the Cult Gaia x Bratz shoe and apparel collab is extremely deserving of a side-by-side. Off-shoulder cardigans, sparkly butterfly backless tops, and lilac snakeprint abound, and classic Cult Gaia silhouettes are made available at Bratz-y (idk, cheaper basically) prices.
Demi-anonymous shoewear brand Ugo Paulon can be difficult to find in stock due to the one-of-one, recycled-materials nature of the bulbous, cushy creations, but a rare capsule with LN-CC for Global Recycling Day means a short stack of styles are available while units last.
There’s also: Longchamp and Charvet team up on a tote bag that looks like a dish towel, but with Longchamp’s signature hardware, and it’s one of the more original bags I’ve seen in some time—it’s only $170 at that; South Indian brand Abacaxi launches its stingray-inspired SS’22 collection; a New York brand you should keep close watch on, Maiden Name launches its spring apparel collection, too, but much more on that in a week or two (hint hint!); Ukrainian brand Bevza reopens its online shop despite near-impossible fulfillment conditions with an appeal to support the Ukrainian army; spring is for gorping, and this Merrell x Sweaty Betty Moab team-up is a better match for the Dimes Square terrain where the uniform abounds than I’d have expected; Dusseldorf-based intimates brand Du Ciel launches its first swimwear collection at SSENSE, and the silhouettes are as precisely, cuttingly minimalist as its laser-threaded thongs and triangle bralettes; Ganni’s the latest brand to release a Juicy Couture collab; chic, in-the-know-woman workout brand Live the Process collides with chic, in-the-know-woman skincare brand Lesse on a comb and headband set so that nosy, medicine-cabinet-peering guests will see that you, too, are a woman in the know; Cuyana branches out into Stretch; I.AM.GIA’s summer ‘22 ICONS collection has landed, and the prices are as usual unbeatable; if you loved the Agmes x Simone Bodmer Turner collab, you’ll love Lemaire’s “Seeds” jewelry; would Hereu even be a Spanish brand if it didn’t release an espadrille collection?; Lunya debuts a Kristen Giorgi capsule collection of sleepwear; Warby Parker partners with vintage furniture store Lichen NYC on an eyeglass tray that, not to be dramatic, is just unlike anything I’ve ever seen; in more eyewear news, Sunnei releases the Prototipo 3 shades in more colors; and Marine Serre SS’22 collection touches down at Nordstrom.
What’s on sale
Let’s skip right past the “a lot of you have been asking for my skincare routine” schtick and just say that I test a lot of beauty products for my “day job.” Over the years, I’ve had the chance to try some that are truly remarkable—I can’t wait to tell you about the brand I’m testing now— and the unmistakable fact is that many of those products are on sale at Sephora’s Spring Savings Event (to varying discounts based on your loyalty status with code SAVESPRING—available today to VIBs). Consistent post-shower drying with Crown Affair’s hair towel permanently resolved my frizz with its non-terry material and easy twist-and-tuck design; Eadem’s Milk Marvel serum, specially formulated for melanated skin, lifted nearly all of my muddy dark spots; my bottle of Moon Juice Acid Potion has lasted for-eh-ver and smooths the graininess out of my skin in minutes without any friction; paired with Paula’s Choice BHA, it’s like clearing our my pores with a Scrub Daddy; this Vegamour dry shampoo that alledgedly makes your hair grow the more you use it is the platonic ideal of a dry shampoo; and because I’m riding an adaptogen wave, I’m (peacefully, enlightenedly) drinking a lot of Moon Juice’s mushroomy Cosmic Matcha. For full transparency, though, what I actually walked away from the sale with were these Goop sleep gummies that I tried months ago and still crave and a Westman Atelier contour stick, because it’s chic and they refuse to send me free product 🙃.
I wouldn’t call myself a Ganni girl per se, but even I have to admit there’s something comfortingly predictable about the frilly collars, the coquettishly clunky boots, the un-ironic leopard print—and on the basics end of things, there are more than a few pieces that are probably exactly what I need to round out my perpetually holey wardrobe. The Ganni “Postmodern” Archive Sale has over 100 styles marked down up to 70% off, and with most things under $100, I’m lacking my usual resistance. (I bought these jeans.)
Hub for under-the-radar Korean brands W Concept is spotlighting leather goods maker Demaker as its weekly deal. Lustrous suede shoulder bags and smart patent crossbodies are up to 40% off plus an extra 10% off with DEMAKER10.
The internet is awash with never-dying sales, retailers’ clearance pages forever splashing in with past-season merchandise as items spill out into buyers hands or further along down the off-price fashion chain (I’ve said it before, but SSENSE’s toggle on-toggle off discount practice makes it the last real sale). Sometimes, despite no real “event,” these perma-sale sections draw me in and turn out to have a serendipitous selection at hand. Most recently, I was all over YOOX and wanted to escalate some standouts to you: an 82% off sheer Miu Miu skirt like the ones from the Spring ‘95 collection that keep circulating on Instagram; Carhartt-esque Marni pants in cream and baby blue for under $200; a seriously excellent Dries Van Noten flapper party top; and a Peter Pan-collared Comme Des Garçons sheer top that’s giving full fetish.
There’s also: J.Crew is selling tons of spring picks for 30% off with SPRING, including already discounted styles; get 20% off Aexae’s entire site with hidden code “theboldeffect,” Madewell is up to 40% off with YESPLS;
The LVMH Prize announced its eight finalists, some unfamiliar names and others already thoroughly stanned-for in this newsletter: Ashlyn from South Korea, ERL from Los Angeles, KNWLS from London, Roisin Pierce from Ireland, Ryunosukeokazaki from Japan, S.S.Daley from London, Tokyo James from Nigeria, and Winnie New York from, yes, New York. Regardless of who is selected to receive the grant money and the accolades, it’s safe to say these are all names to watch.
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