361: This summer is a showdown between Boom Boom and Recession-core
A matrix of every summer vibe, according to seven experts.
I sat down one day a couple weeks ago and shot off a series of emails to a few very important people, asking them: What’s the vibe this summer?
I’d been working on a kind of personal moodboard, collecting images and references in tandem with my perpetual-motion wishlist to try and nail down the answer to that question myself. The way I dress shifts between Memorial Day (you are here) and Labor Day, but I have a strong instinct around what it’s going to be at the precipice.
People’s summer style philosophies don’t usually reveal themselves to us—through IG Stories and, now, outfit newsletters—as a complete picture until we’re already far gone in the throes of travel…or even approaching the point of no return of fall shopping. But I like to get inspired by others’ webs of references and north stars and toy with how they interact with my own tastes; to expand beyond the overlaps of our dressing Venn diagrams.
These six important and influential shoppers kindly shared their thoughts on style for the summer ahead, proposing names for the cloud of moods and brands that make up their “vibe.” What emerged was a handful of interconnected agendas in dialogue with each other. The summer 2025 matrix spans Sporty to Boho, Recession-core to Boom Boom.
Brooke Callahan tie pants and Martiniano shoes are mascots of the upper plane, harem pants from the likes of Chloé, Valentino, and Aflalo unite the lower.
The experts
Our summer vibe panel is composed of designers, brand founders, creative directors, retail experts…and me. Each contributor was tapped for their specific tie to the season, their personal style and work in previous years demonstrating an acute handle on the nuances of ever-evolving summer style.
Discover their seven summer vibes, below.
Bonjour Tristesse
Coined by
Carmen De Baets, Co-Founder + Creative Director of CARMEN
“My vibe has always been: practicality, comfort, and style with a touch of fab. I live in Amsterdam where practicality is necessary, but I am also Lebanese so fab is a part of my soul.
I recently watched the original Bonjour Tristesse (1958) and fell in love with the color palette. Jean Seaberg’s looks are really me. A beautiful, bathing suit with a simple shirt and white flats. But then at night she dresses up, adds that touch of fab.”
Characteristics
Very into coordinated sets—so you feel instantly dressed. Last year I wore this stripy Baserange set all the time. Even put some heels under and wore it to an opening and felt fab but understated/effortless.
Metallics—Linda who works in the shop bought herself a full gold SC103 bag and I’m obsessed. It’s not findable at the moment so I pulled out my gold Martiniano gloves—also a rare find. But I think it looks great when you’re wearing all silver jewelry. Somehow it works.
Color-wise, I’m really into this kind of grey/silver/purple-ish metallic. Turquoise in summer always! Orange. Polka dots!!
Am loving sheer layers. So wearing a more sophisticated skirt paired with a sheer top…or a sheer scarf draped over a simple tank can add depth to an outfit.
If this vibe were a place
I am manifesting that the backyard of the guesthouse will embody this vibe this summer. When you’re back there it can at times feel like you’re in a beautiful modernist house in the Mediterranean.
Key brands
I’m a really big Baserange fan for the summer and wear their pieces a lot—especially their coordinated sets. I'll build around Baserange and then add new Flore Flore colours, my current favourite shapes are the Isla and the May.
Loving Gil Rodriguez for summer too. We got some great coordinated sets in from her as well + sheer kaftans. I elaborate on which swim brands I think pair well and love below.
Martiniano shoes always, Sophie Buhai for jewelry. These are my go to accessories brands.
If you can splurge on Cristaseya and manage to catch them when their online shop is open. So worth it. Their fabrics and cuts are amazing.
Love combining anything from the store with colorful pieces from Clara’s Turn Vintage selections. Her color combinations inspire me a lot.
Comfort Chic
Coined by
Ana Kras, Designer, Photographer, Artist + Co-Founder of Teget
“This summer is a very special summer for me. I am pregnant and expecting the baby this summer, so my style is very much about my belly being comfortable.
These days I feel the best when I am naked, so I try to dress in the way to simulate that feeling. To me it’s very relevant as it’s my reality :)) but for women not dressing for pregnancy, this same style gives so much comfort, which to me is the most important thing in the summer.”
Characteristics
Thin, natural materials and unbuttoned button-ups, orthopedic shoes and sandals (my all-year and every-summer classic), everything’s lightweight. I use a lot of scarfs too, tied in different ways.
This season is about enjoying life in a spontaneous way, no shoe should stand in the way, nothing should stand in the way. Nothing more attractive than a comfortable person, moving with ease.
If this vibe were a place
Croatia, Montenegro, or Greece
Key brands
I have been enjoying Brooke Callahan cotton pants with a tie on the hips, they feel the best because there is no elastics.
A super fine cotton, almost transparent, long sleeve by Baserange is also something I've been wearing a lot in last months.
Paloma Wool slide mules feel great as they are slippers but look like shoes.
The sunglasses are the most important part for me in the summer. I've been wearing only one same style for over a decade now—RSF Drew Mama, and so happy we did a collaboration with them so I got to design my version of this classic shape.
All the rest is my old pieces that fit and feel good—I've been living in mesh collection I designed for Teget x Saks Potts collab we launched last summer.
I've been wearing a bunch of pieces I had made by my seamstress to my design—shirts in raw silk, shirt dresses in Italian cotton...I just made a few new pieces in Belgrade that I will wear this summer.
Seratonin Summer
Coined by
Olympia Gayot, Creative Director + Head of Design at J.Crew
“Nostalgic sporty girl. A bit of late ‘70s/early ‘80s sport meets cheeky meets femme. Color, Color, Color!
The influence of sport on our culture is so pervasive, whether if it’s actual competitive sports or people being active and mixing it into their daily wardrobe. It’s always been a part of the American culture and undercurrent and is having such a moment NOW.”
Characteristics
We are starting off in the city where I see a lot of girls on the streets wearing basketball shorts, socks with jelly sandals, graphic T’s, ruffly slip skirts with men’s tank tops, and we wind up on the coast or some far flung European country where we trade the sneakers for jelly sandals and wear layers of sheer color. We collect jewelry along the way, mixing and incorporating interesting colors, child-like items.
If this vibe were a place
For me it’s downtown NYC on a hot and sticky day at the beginning of the summer…but it can be ANY city. Then we travel to Europe or any remote, far away coastal town with rocky beaches where life is simple.
Key brands
Skyting—those girls definitely live and breathe the sporty side of this look
Nomenclature of Colors
Coined by
Bailey Hunter, Designer + Creative Director at Tigra Tigra + The Elder Statesman
“The name ‘nomenclature of colors,’ inspired by an 18th century geologist’s guidebook to colors found within the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms.
I've always been drawn to color and color theory, and how colors can work together or against each other—summer is for experimenting with colors and texture.”
If this vibe were a place
Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan. I love the use of color here—so many amazing silk wall coverings in green and yellow silk moires, rich carpet colors.
Key brands
Martiniano leather shoes in pops of colors
Lots of gem jewelry
Romantic Nomad
Coined by
Lydia Zacharis, Luxury Fashion Buying Manager at Net-A-Porter
“Think Talitha Getty in the ‘60s and Loulou de Falaise in the ‘70s. It is an easy, breezy but somewhat fabulous summer.”
Characteristics
A soft color palette of whites, pastels and sunset tones, paired back to bohemian tan suedes, fringes and colored beads.
Perennial summer raffias with crisp cottons and chiffons, white denim, crochets, kaftans, harem pants, jelly shoes, chunky statement jewelry and multi-purpose printed silk scarves.
She is wearing a belted long kaftan dress with thong slides and jewelry as the centre piece, a silk georgette ruffle or slip dress with clogs and a silk printed scarf top with high waist shorts/white jeans and jelly shoes.
An antithesis and balance to a winter full of pragmatic browns and burgundies, suedes and calf hairs—she is now taking a break and wants to feel light and effortless.
If this vibe were a place
Marrakech—particularly during its Saint Laurent peak era—and the Mediterranean.
Key brands
The last drop of Loewe x Paula Ibiza’s and the recent Chloé à la Plage collection perfectly encapsulate the mood, with Chloé, since last year, having single handedly brought back that mood and benefitting the classic bohemian likes of Isabel Marant and Etro too.
Feminine, romantic Faithfull and Dôen too fall under that umbrella, with Bode tapping into the artisanal, vintage-feel side, Pucci adding a glamorous touch and High Sport nodding to this summer freshness in a preppier way.
Saint Laurent, Alighieri, Le Sundial, Julietta, and Maria Klass on the jewelry front.
Chloe’s jelly sandals, Ancient Greek Sandals, and the upcoming Khaite Dr Scholl-like clogs on shoes.
Loewe’s various basket and leather woven bags remain winners but there are great options from Saint Laurent and Khaite too along Valentino and Isabel Marant’s suede fringe options.
Plus vintage-print silk scarves from Gucci, Hermès, or Pucci to be worn as a head scarf or around the waist.
Row-hemian
Coined by
Laura Reilly, Founder + Editor of
“A clash-up of athletic minimalism and imperfect, talismanic tradition. Tailoring meets craft. ‘90s severity softened by ‘70s folk. One is Lucy Liu, the other is Drew Barrymore.”
Characteristics
Defined necklines: V necks, wrap-neck halters, and skinny scarves
Black and neutrals mixed in with solid pastels and rich, coastal colors
Pique fabrics, performance wool, embroidered mirrors
Organic tokens against technical materials
Asymmetrical accessories
If this vibe were a place
Marseille, maybe. New York, really.
Key brands
I’ve been thinking lately about how the style of my late 20s was defined by MNZ, and that of my early 30s by The Row. I’ve reached a crossroads where I can feel myself looking for the next thing that reflects this new stage in my life, but in the meantime, the things I wear now appear to integrate these two camps with satisfying tension.
Also: Wales Bonner, Vautrait, Christopher Esber, High Sport, Paloma Wool, Valentino.
Feral But Fashion
Coined by
Yael Aflalo, Founder of Aflalo
“It’s the summer of max vibes. Not loud for attention, but loud because you're excited. We’re exiting the beige cocoon of ‘quiet luxury’ and reemerging in volume, eccentricity, and unapologetic expression.”
Characteristics
Everyone’s exhausted by aesthetic sameness. We want chaos, personality, story. The ‘70s are back, not literally but as a vibe.
If this vibe were a place
Naples. Slightly unhinged, absolutely stylish, and not at all trying to impress you. Also pizza.
Key brands
Aflalo, obviously — we’re making summer pieces that feel like heirlooms but also like clouds.
The weird pieces from The Row, Chloé, Saint Laurent, and loads of vintage.
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I love all the inspirations but the lack of body diversity doesn't help me to choose my style for this summer. I love my body but I don't fit in that body shape (or that skin tone). I am not giving hate, I believe this is amazing written just lack a bit of inclusion (body and complexion). :)
Reading this as we close our CB summer drop: we went hard on metallics—pewter hardware, soft-sheen leathers—because shine is the common thread across your matrix. Comfort-chic bases with a flash of metal feel right now: walkable soles, polished uppers. Super useful lens for designing shoes you can actually live in.
https://open.substack.com/pub/williambrewster/p/big-flower-trouble-clara-barcelo?r=q47nq&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
https://open.substack.com/pub/williambrewster/p/san-telmo-silverworks-the-story-behind?r=q47nq&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web&showWelcomeOnShare=false